My apologies for letting my blog go empty these past couple weeks... my last week here has been completely rained out! While Moldova was described by a man I met at the American Embassy as "on the road from Transylvania to Chernobyl", it is with mixed emotions that I leave this interesting, peaceful, and truly welcoming country. It has been a personally refreshing time for me, wandering around the parks and having adventures with my new friends, although humbling to be held hostage by the incredible hospitality of Europe's "poorest" country. While I understand some of the complexities of life in Moldova, it is hard for me to accept the labels which mark it as a sinking ship.
Among some of the things I will miss:
-drinking champagne in the office weekly (is this allowed Craig?)
-jogging in the park with my own armed guard
-cheap organic fruits and veggies
-watching Moldovan news
-the air, which is like sea-air, even though it's landlocked, i am not sure how this works
-all my colleagues at CCF who have gone out of their way to make me welcome
On a positive note, I will be meeting up with all my friends in Sighisoara, and Gordon's coming!!! Now that my work is done in Chisinau, I'll get to party for a couple weeks :)
Here are some of my favorite pictures. I got painted by a supposedly famous Moldavian painter Vasile Dohotaru, at the request of my friend Lena, check it out:
Until Sighi....
Eamon in Moldova 2011
Friday, July 1, 2011
Monday, June 13, 2011
Weekend in the Country
I feel obligated to write something about the political situation in Moldova, because we are in middle of a heated re-vote for mayor of Chisinau. On June 9th, the Communist party candidate Igor Dodon won 48% of the vote, but not the necessary 51%. I am still trying to figure out how this all works, or if more people are expected to vote this time (only two weeks later), and why people are voting Communist. Interestingly, Sunday was the 70-year commemoration of Stalin's deportation of many Moldovans to Siberia (mostly educated and wealthy people.) In addition, Moldova has an "interim" president who also failed to win the necessary majority vote. For me, the biggest challenge lies in trying to envision a president called Igor, but it's such a common name here, I am sure I would get used to it.
I had a fantastic weekend with my friends Eugenia and Tania at Eugenia's parents farm in a village near Orhei. When we arrived from the packed, sweaty, chicken-filled bus to the village of Slobozea, we sat down for soup and hot bread, fresh from the "cuptor", the wood-fired oven. I can't explain what this tasted like, but the entire weekend was a feast. I ate some of the best food I've ever had, including fresh dairy (cheese, milk, and sour cream) fresh bread, cake, and "placinte" (savory pastries), sarmale (rice and meat in vine leaves) fresh meat, and tons of other delicacies. However, my favorite part was that there was a different variety of homemade wine to try at every meal (breakfast included!) which we shared by passing around a small cup and drinking one by one. I also got to take part in picking and canning strawberries and rose petals, and killing a rabbit and chicken for Eugenia to take back to her apartment in Chisinau. I was sent home with a goodie basket, too. The only thing I really passed on was the "recituri", chicken feet suspended claws-up in a bowl of clear gelatin, which gave me a unique insight into what a chicken's nightmare might be. It also made me realize I don't like meat that much.
I had a fantastic weekend with my friends Eugenia and Tania at Eugenia's parents farm in a village near Orhei. When we arrived from the packed, sweaty, chicken-filled bus to the village of Slobozea, we sat down for soup and hot bread, fresh from the "cuptor", the wood-fired oven. I can't explain what this tasted like, but the entire weekend was a feast. I ate some of the best food I've ever had, including fresh dairy (cheese, milk, and sour cream) fresh bread, cake, and "placinte" (savory pastries), sarmale (rice and meat in vine leaves) fresh meat, and tons of other delicacies. However, my favorite part was that there was a different variety of homemade wine to try at every meal (breakfast included!) which we shared by passing around a small cup and drinking one by one. I also got to take part in picking and canning strawberries and rose petals, and killing a rabbit and chicken for Eugenia to take back to her apartment in Chisinau. I was sent home with a goodie basket, too. The only thing I really passed on was the "recituri", chicken feet suspended claws-up in a bowl of clear gelatin, which gave me a unique insight into what a chicken's nightmare might be. It also made me realize I don't like meat that much.
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Finally....Some Photos
Well, here's the courtyard of my place (see green punching bag). Below is my lovely living room which I don't really use because I get the feeling I am not supposed to use the lights that much... so sitting in a big dark room is not too appealing, although it does have rockin' silver-speckled wallpaper which is sadly not done justice in the picture.
Images from Cupcini Institution for Children, due to close in June, currently housing 21 children. We went there and had a recreation day, hence the face paint and my lovely tattoo. I was not really allowed to take pictures of the children, and learned after that the staff did not want me to take pictures of the buildings. It is difficult to describe the enormity and coldness of communist institutions like this one. At capacity, it housed 450 children. Wish I could post more pictures, but they are taking too long to download!
Lastly, a barbecue in the courtyard with Cristina and friends, a good way to spend a Saturday here, drinking a "Chisinau" beer.
Images from Cupcini Institution for Children, due to close in June, currently housing 21 children. We went there and had a recreation day, hence the face paint and my lovely tattoo. I was not really allowed to take pictures of the children, and learned after that the staff did not want me to take pictures of the buildings. It is difficult to describe the enormity and coldness of communist institutions like this one. At capacity, it housed 450 children. Wish I could post more pictures, but they are taking too long to download!
Lastly, a barbecue in the courtyard with Cristina and friends, a good way to spend a Saturday here, drinking a "Chisinau" beer.
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Down to Business - CCF Moldova
Well, I started work last Sunday and I wanted to post a little bit about the work I have been doing with CCF (Children, Communities, and Families) Moldova, an NGO which partners with the Moldovan Department of Child Protection, Hope and Homes for Children UK, Unicef, ECPAT International, and Caritas Switzerland, among other partners. As I understand it, CCF does not have authority in child protection cases, but offers the practical expertise, logisitcs, human and capital resources to get the job done. So they are working very closely in partnership with the Moldovan authorities in child protection cases.
The director, Liliana Rotaru, has told me that 90% of the work that CCF is doing involves de-institutionalization of children in Moldova. Basically what this involves is starting a process of case managment for the children who will be either re-integrated into their birth/extended families, or placed in liscensed foster families. There is also a strong prevention component to the work CCF is doing, in order to prevent new cases from using the country's institutions (as there is currently no moratorium on new placements.) The main goal of CCF now is to see as many institutions as possible closed. In addition, this goal is an anti-trafficking strategy, as many vulnerable children and young adults from Moldova are being trafficked to other countries in Europe and abroad.
Some highlights of my week were:
*Visiting Cupcini, an institution with a capacity of 450 children, which is now down to only 21 children. The institution will close permanently in June. Ana, the leader of this project, spoke to me about the importance of closing the insitutions, even in the face of protest from the staff. Ana subtly pointed out to me that the staff were wearing the same sandals as the children, which had obviously been taken from a donation intended for the children. Staff members had been given the option to become liscenced foster parents for some of the children, but chose not to. Seemingly, the institutional model is still embraced by many as a reasonable solution for children's needs.
*I also was able to participate in many home visits with the staff social workers and psychologists. One example was a family with two HIV positive parents and three young daughters. CCF had helped the family to improve their living conditions enough to keep their chilren at home, as well as educating them about health issues associated with HIV and implications for raising their children.
Another family we visited was a case of two children who had been reintegrated to live with their Grandmother. CCF was assisting with medicine, food, and reparing the apartment which had a mold problem.
I had the great privilege of visiting a foster family who had taken two young siblings into their home from the institution. The foster mother expressed concern that the boy was hiding food all over the house and even in his cheeks after meals, and that the younger daughter had been extremely malnourished. But the kids were beautiful and seemed so healthy and happy. It was amazing to see, in comparision to some of the children at the institution.
*Lastly, on Friday, I was able to participate in a project with ECPAT international called YPP (Youth Partnership Program). This is a peer education program, where young people are trained to educate others on the rights of children and other issues relating to trafficking in Moldova. About 15 young people participated, and it was interesting for me to hear the discussions about what constitutes abuse. For example, one of the questions was, if a 12-year-old girl is sleeping in the same bed with her father, is it abuse? Or if a 7-year-old is selling newspapers, is it abuse? It was thought-provoking for me to hear these high schoolers arguing with each other about their different conceptions of abuse, especcially because it is so difficult to untangle poverty from abuse.
It was an amazing week so far, and I am impressed with the professionalism and aptitude of my colleagues here, who face monumental tasks in child protection.
On a more personal note, I have been enjoying the beautiful sunshine and I found a great park to run in, which is a memorial with an eternal flame, constantly guarded by throngs of uniformed men (again, purpose of uniform thus far unclear.) This morning it was just me and my ten park "officials" as I ran and contemplated such eternal questions as: How do you store a bag of milk in the fridge? How many stuffed animals can possibly fit inside one glass case (this had been bothering me since all my home visits)? Am I really buying towels by the kilogram? (Yes.)
And most importantly, how is it possible to decorate an eternal flame with streamers, ribbons, and plastic flowers, without creating an incendiary device of magnificent proportions? Answer: it takes alot of manpower.
The director, Liliana Rotaru, has told me that 90% of the work that CCF is doing involves de-institutionalization of children in Moldova. Basically what this involves is starting a process of case managment for the children who will be either re-integrated into their birth/extended families, or placed in liscensed foster families. There is also a strong prevention component to the work CCF is doing, in order to prevent new cases from using the country's institutions (as there is currently no moratorium on new placements.) The main goal of CCF now is to see as many institutions as possible closed. In addition, this goal is an anti-trafficking strategy, as many vulnerable children and young adults from Moldova are being trafficked to other countries in Europe and abroad.
Some highlights of my week were:
*Visiting Cupcini, an institution with a capacity of 450 children, which is now down to only 21 children. The institution will close permanently in June. Ana, the leader of this project, spoke to me about the importance of closing the insitutions, even in the face of protest from the staff. Ana subtly pointed out to me that the staff were wearing the same sandals as the children, which had obviously been taken from a donation intended for the children. Staff members had been given the option to become liscenced foster parents for some of the children, but chose not to. Seemingly, the institutional model is still embraced by many as a reasonable solution for children's needs.
*I also was able to participate in many home visits with the staff social workers and psychologists. One example was a family with two HIV positive parents and three young daughters. CCF had helped the family to improve their living conditions enough to keep their chilren at home, as well as educating them about health issues associated with HIV and implications for raising their children.
Another family we visited was a case of two children who had been reintegrated to live with their Grandmother. CCF was assisting with medicine, food, and reparing the apartment which had a mold problem.
I had the great privilege of visiting a foster family who had taken two young siblings into their home from the institution. The foster mother expressed concern that the boy was hiding food all over the house and even in his cheeks after meals, and that the younger daughter had been extremely malnourished. But the kids were beautiful and seemed so healthy and happy. It was amazing to see, in comparision to some of the children at the institution.
*Lastly, on Friday, I was able to participate in a project with ECPAT international called YPP (Youth Partnership Program). This is a peer education program, where young people are trained to educate others on the rights of children and other issues relating to trafficking in Moldova. About 15 young people participated, and it was interesting for me to hear the discussions about what constitutes abuse. For example, one of the questions was, if a 12-year-old girl is sleeping in the same bed with her father, is it abuse? Or if a 7-year-old is selling newspapers, is it abuse? It was thought-provoking for me to hear these high schoolers arguing with each other about their different conceptions of abuse, especcially because it is so difficult to untangle poverty from abuse.
It was an amazing week so far, and I am impressed with the professionalism and aptitude of my colleagues here, who face monumental tasks in child protection.
On a more personal note, I have been enjoying the beautiful sunshine and I found a great park to run in, which is a memorial with an eternal flame, constantly guarded by throngs of uniformed men (again, purpose of uniform thus far unclear.) This morning it was just me and my ten park "officials" as I ran and contemplated such eternal questions as: How do you store a bag of milk in the fridge? How many stuffed animals can possibly fit inside one glass case (this had been bothering me since all my home visits)? Am I really buying towels by the kilogram? (Yes.)
And most importantly, how is it possible to decorate an eternal flame with streamers, ribbons, and plastic flowers, without creating an incendiary device of magnificent proportions? Answer: it takes alot of manpower.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Getting Settled and the Three "P"s
Well, it's going to be difficult to summarize all the adventures unfolding here. My four flights went smoothly, and my best friend Jill and family happened to be in Bucharest on Thursday and met me at the airport for a coffee, which was amazing and torturous because then I just wanted to go to Sighisoara with them!
But I eventually tore myself away and took a bus to the station in Bucharest to get my overnight train to Chisinau, and spent a few hours there before departing. (I have to admit here, I actually ate at McDonald's in the station because there were chairs and a free bathroom. Sorry to my purist friends.) When I attempted to sit in the waiting room at the notoriously sketchy Bucharest train station, I was accosted by a man who looked like a ninja, with two nightsticks crossed across his back and big combat boots; he ripped my airline luggage tags off my suitcase without warning, and then proceeded to lecture me on what can happen if people see my luggage tag and realize I am a foreigner, because there are many "shmekers" (my favorite word, English spelling, meaning more or less, "sly dogs.") Nevermind that he was by far the most aggressive fellow I encountered, and was the one announcing to all that I was a foreigner. Apparently it then became his personal mission to protect dumb little me, and he paced back and forth around my chair, found out what line my train was leaving from, and glared at everyone who came within 20 feet of where I was sitting. I am convinved that ninja-man was an awesome answer to someone's prayer for my safety.
About the apartment.... well, it is actually bigger than my apartment in Missoula. It's pretty empty but has lots and lots of textiles to go around, like all the houses here. I kind of wish I had brought more stuff now, like some furniture. I can summarize the house (it's part of a house, my landlord lives upstairs) with three "P"s: prison, pit bull, and punching bag. My bedroom window looks out on the prison; however Cristina, the daughter of my landlord, assures me it is safe because "where there are criminals, there are also police." Additionally, Cristina and her mother Svetlana have a pit bull puppy Shayla, who loves to rip my clothes, but I have to admit she is still really cute. Some of you know how I feel about pit bulls, in the same category with mushroom tattoos :) There is also a punching bag in the courtyard, which Cristina is using to train for boxing, and she said I can use it whenever I want. I am remembering the Russian Rocky scenes fondly -- you never know, I might do some boxing. Anyway, the neighborhood is really nice, close to the city center, and very green and much cleaner than I expected. I really can't go out at night by myself, which is A-ok by me. People seem friendly but I also have seen many of the characters from the Albanian mob scene in "Taken."
One thing I didn't realize is that many people speak Russian as their first language (including Cristina and Svetlana) and Romanian as their second. So it will be interesting learning some Russian and Russian culture. Overall, the apartment is great! Apart from a few terror-inducing many-legged insects in my bathroom, I am pretty comfortable. I will try to send pictures but don't have great internet access right now. You'll have to wait.
But I eventually tore myself away and took a bus to the station in Bucharest to get my overnight train to Chisinau, and spent a few hours there before departing. (I have to admit here, I actually ate at McDonald's in the station because there were chairs and a free bathroom. Sorry to my purist friends.) When I attempted to sit in the waiting room at the notoriously sketchy Bucharest train station, I was accosted by a man who looked like a ninja, with two nightsticks crossed across his back and big combat boots; he ripped my airline luggage tags off my suitcase without warning, and then proceeded to lecture me on what can happen if people see my luggage tag and realize I am a foreigner, because there are many "shmekers" (my favorite word, English spelling, meaning more or less, "sly dogs.") Nevermind that he was by far the most aggressive fellow I encountered, and was the one announcing to all that I was a foreigner. Apparently it then became his personal mission to protect dumb little me, and he paced back and forth around my chair, found out what line my train was leaving from, and glared at everyone who came within 20 feet of where I was sitting. I am convinved that ninja-man was an awesome answer to someone's prayer for my safety.
About the apartment.... well, it is actually bigger than my apartment in Missoula. It's pretty empty but has lots and lots of textiles to go around, like all the houses here. I kind of wish I had brought more stuff now, like some furniture. I can summarize the house (it's part of a house, my landlord lives upstairs) with three "P"s: prison, pit bull, and punching bag. My bedroom window looks out on the prison; however Cristina, the daughter of my landlord, assures me it is safe because "where there are criminals, there are also police." Additionally, Cristina and her mother Svetlana have a pit bull puppy Shayla, who loves to rip my clothes, but I have to admit she is still really cute. Some of you know how I feel about pit bulls, in the same category with mushroom tattoos :) There is also a punching bag in the courtyard, which Cristina is using to train for boxing, and she said I can use it whenever I want. I am remembering the Russian Rocky scenes fondly -- you never know, I might do some boxing. Anyway, the neighborhood is really nice, close to the city center, and very green and much cleaner than I expected. I really can't go out at night by myself, which is A-ok by me. People seem friendly but I also have seen many of the characters from the Albanian mob scene in "Taken."
One thing I didn't realize is that many people speak Russian as their first language (including Cristina and Svetlana) and Romanian as their second. So it will be interesting learning some Russian and Russian culture. Overall, the apartment is great! Apart from a few terror-inducing many-legged insects in my bathroom, I am pretty comfortable. I will try to send pictures but don't have great internet access right now. You'll have to wait.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Well, Just a few more days...
Hey guys, this blog is an experiment, but I will try to keep you all updated on my short adventure to Moldova... I am not sure how regular my internet use will be, but I'll try to make an effort! For those of us who need a better understanding of where Moldova is (I include myself in that!) see above. The upper eastern region of Transdniestr is currently under control of Russian separatists, so I most likely won't go there, but I'll be in Chisinau and I'll probably have a chance to get out to the surrounding villages. I am working for CCF Moldova, an NGO which serves children and families in multiple anti-trafficking initiatives and child protection capacities.
I'll be leaving the 18th of May -- and will share my not-so-direct travel itinerary cause I think it's funny. I fly from Missoula to Salt Lake City to Calgary to Amsterdam to Bucharest, and then I'll take an overnight train from Bucharest to Chisinau. All told, I'll leave Missoula Wednesday morning and arrive in Chisinau sometime Friday morning. I'm pretty sure I am the only one to ever search MSO-KIV on Yahoo travel.
For those of you who are wondering, I chose Moldova because it's a place I have never been, yet I can use my rusty Romanian language skills there, fantastically. One of only two countries where Romanian comes in handy! I found CCF on the internet and was accepted for an internship. According to the state department Moldova information page, Moldova continues to be one of the poorest countries in Europe and is a corridor for human trafficking from Russia to Eastern Europe and beyond.
I am all packed and I am pretty proud of myself, I must say... I packed for nine weeks in a carry-on size suitcase. Yeah!
Hopefully I'll have a chance to write again soon, when I recover from the journey... au revoir friends!
I'll be leaving the 18th of May -- and will share my not-so-direct travel itinerary cause I think it's funny. I fly from Missoula to Salt Lake City to Calgary to Amsterdam to Bucharest, and then I'll take an overnight train from Bucharest to Chisinau. All told, I'll leave Missoula Wednesday morning and arrive in Chisinau sometime Friday morning. I'm pretty sure I am the only one to ever search MSO-KIV on Yahoo travel.
For those of you who are wondering, I chose Moldova because it's a place I have never been, yet I can use my rusty Romanian language skills there, fantastically. One of only two countries where Romanian comes in handy! I found CCF on the internet and was accepted for an internship. According to the state department Moldova information page, Moldova continues to be one of the poorest countries in Europe and is a corridor for human trafficking from Russia to Eastern Europe and beyond.
I am all packed and I am pretty proud of myself, I must say... I packed for nine weeks in a carry-on size suitcase. Yeah!
Hopefully I'll have a chance to write again soon, when I recover from the journey... au revoir friends!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)








